A while back I posted a contour tutorial, but since then I have found a new process to apply a contour look, and new products to achieve it.
There are endless ways to contour based on your own face shape and also control how much you want to alter your shape. In my opinion you should contour and highlight your face in the most natural way to enhance, and in the process not completely change your structure. There's a bit of artistry that takes place when it comes to contouring and highlighting. It's all about creating the illusion of angles and shapes that look natural. It's all about the "blur", harsh lines are a definite no no! Also, the products you use are important too. If you use powders you get a matte finish look and if you go with cream products, they tend to give a Dewey look. Both are fine, but I strongly suggest staying away from highlighters and bronzers that have shimmer in them.
Here’s what's needed for contouring and highlighting:
- Concealer. Preferably one that is a shade or two lighter than your natural skin tone. Highlighters work too but doesn't offer much coverage, so I say use it over top of the concealer.
- Your everyday foundation.
- Bronzer. Now, if your bronzer has an orange tone to it or shimmer do not use it to contour. You can use a brown or taupe eye shadow instead. You want to stick to tones that suit your natural skin tone.
- Translucent setting powder
- Blending brush (flat or angled)
- Blush brush
- Foundation brush. I like to use a stippled brush because it blends really well to get that "airbrushed" finish.
- Concealer brush. This isn't totally necessary; you can use your fingertip.
- A large flat eye shadow brush.
Now let's begin!
1. Starting with a prepped face. I apply the concealer on the center of my forehead, down the bridge of my nose, under my eyes, the top of my cheekbones, Cupid bow and center of my chin. With your finger or a brush work inwards and blend out. These are the areas we want to highlight and ENHANCE.
2. Using my stippled foundation brush I apply my everyday foundation first to the areas not covered by the concealer. Then I lightly blend all over so you don't see the contrast.
3. Now time to contour. I like to use a powder brush because it has a softer application and prevents applying in harsh lines. Think of drawing a "3”. Along the temples, curve down and underneath your cheekbones (don't go too close to your lip corners) and underneath your jawlines. I also like to sweep across the top of my forehead, closest to my hairline. I usually build by repeating this process until I like the definition.
4. Using the powder brush and contour powder I follow from the bottom inside corner of my brows, down the side of the bridge of my nose and around the tip. Then using light strokes I blend along the sides of my nose.
5. Next I apply my blush to the apples of my cheeks and blend back along my cheekbones.
6. Now you may be noticing some harsh contrasts. This is where the blending and blurring really matters. Using a translucent powder and my angled blending brush I gently blend in circular motions. Again, you don't want to see and demarcations. Focus on these areas: under your eyes, tops of your cheekbones, your jawline, around your whole mouth, top and sides of your nose and foreheads. Just keep making smalls circles around your face until you don’t see the harsh lines.
Practice really does make perfect. Obviously we all have different bone structures and you will find in time you can really find your own method to make your structure pop. I suggest studying your face before you begin. Use your fingers to trace the angles, where your cheekbones are, and the curvatures and lines of your nose. Use these as guides when you are highlighting and contouring. And don't forget to blend, blend, blend!
The products I used:
Fash Cosmetics angled blush brush, powder brush and eye shadow brush
Photography By Jennifer Biswas